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"POURING TECHNIQUE" IN WATERCOLORS---...

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Raliegh
New member
Username: Raliegh

Post Number: 7
Registered: 8-2006
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2006 - 7:10 pm:   Print Post

Pouring and washes are 2 different things. I struggle with uneven washes. I can do it when there is no (sometimes masked) white but to guide the color around white areas always leaves uneven color or streaks. Any suggestions, I've been working with white flowers against a very dark background. I took Eugene's advise and dared to use Payne's gray mixed with permanent green so I would only have to go one wash.
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Eugene
Junior Member
Username: Eugene

Post Number: 20
Registered: 8-2006
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2006 - 2:56 pm:   Print Post

Sally, First, you must work on good paper. Use plenty of liquid paint , so that you can guide the bead of paint accross the paper. Work Quickly!

Some paints are easier to use in making a smooth wash. Ultremarine and earth colors with heavy pigments may be harder to use than the more transparent colors.

Use a brush that holds a lot of paint, like squirrel or sable. Synthetic don't hold very much.
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Anonymous
Unregistered guest
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2006 - 2:32 pm:   Print Post

Pigment used, brush used, paper used, amount of water--all these variables are crucial. Please elaborate.
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Sally Magg
Unregistered guest
Posted on Wednesday, August 30, 2006 - 2:27 pm:   Print Post

I've been painting a long time, but I still can't seem to do a perfect wash--one without stripes or uneveness. I'm trying to layer washes like Jean Dobie does. I know to tilt the paper, and pick up the "bead" each time. Still, poor results. Any good advice, anyone?
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drollere
Posted on Monday, February 16, 2004 - 5:22 pm:   Print Post

the wet in wet mixing you are talking about depends primarily on: the type of pigment, the dilution of the paint, the amount of water on the paper, the amount of paint added to the water, and the amount of liquid displacement (tilting, rocking, spraying, etc.) done after the paint is added.

"muddy" mixtures usually result from: highly active ("shooting") paints or not "primary" (magenta, yellow, greenish blue) colors; too diluted paints; too much water on the paper; too much paint; too much displacement.

i think most of the painters who use this technique prefer synthetic organic, near "primary" colored pigments. i especially like the effect you get with a phthalo cyan, a green gold, and a scarlet red, which mixes almost no purple; the green gold dilutes to a soft, clean yellow.

most also add the paints in fairly large, separate areas, then tilt the painting in one direction to let the paints flow downwards and, as they flow, spread into each other. the flow reduces the color separation (mixes the paints more), so you want to start with the color areas you want most distinct, and flow into the areas where they should blend.

the paints should have a milky but not creamy consistency, and the paper should be shiny but not drooling wet.

if the colors look too strong, or are not mixing or flowing as you like, use a spray bottle of water to help them downhill.

rocking the painting side to side will help mix the paints. but not too much.
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Linda
Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2003 - 11:01 pm:   Print Post

Nita Engles has written what I have found to be the best work on this subject, "How to Make a Watercolor Paint Itself" is the title, I believe.
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Matt L.
Posted on Thursday, October 9, 2003 - 1:02 am:   Print Post

I don't typically "pour" per se, but I do a lot of really wet work, generally with spray bottles and have encountered the muddiness issue before. What seems to work best is to use a really limited palette. I generally stick to working with primary colors only, occasionally I'll throw in some violet or a deep green. I avoid payne's gray, cad reds, and cerulean blue (some of the cad yellows can be problematic as well). Rose madder, alizarin crimson, ultramarine blue, pthalo blue, and lemon yellow tend to work well for me. YMMV depending on the particular brand of paint you're using.
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tony d.s.
Posted on Saturday, September 13, 2003 - 7:59 pm:   Print Post

TO POURING YOU MAY WANT TO TRY, PAINTING UNDERWATER; i.e. cookie sheet or what have you-place w/c paper down then h2o. Pour, drip etc. with paint. Let sit, whatever design you have will change w/ time.[ as the earth turns?] hints,are do not use too many colors, move location of tray to manipulate design, start with acrylics,tube or liquid end with w/c- have fun.
tony d.s.
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Kukana
Posted on Monday, September 8, 2003 - 6:41 pm:   Print Post

I pour only colros that I know will not muddy together. Then I let it dry completely then pour the other colors and let them glaze ove the first colors.
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pamcasso
Posted on Friday, September 5, 2003 - 7:00 pm:   Print Post

Need to know info on how to do pouring. Great effects can be accomplished but mine get muddy. Any knowledge of books or other artists that will share info..please. Im very frustrated...Thank you..pamcasso@yahoo.com

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