| Author | Message | ||
  Anonymous |
May I suggest the following excellent palette of colors gained from decades of trial and error. The individual pigments are of the highest intensity, transparency and lightfastness. The colors are perfect matches in terms of mixing complementarity: Cool Yellow--Grumbacher Finest Lemon Yellow Warm Yellow--Holbein Permanent Yellow Deep Warm red-- Daler-Rowney Vermillion Hue Cool Red-- Rembrandt Red Violet (quinacridone) Warm Blue-- Holbein French Ultramarine Deep Cool Blue-- Grumbacher Finest Thalo Blue Cool Blue (Opaque)-- Mainmeriblu Cerulean Blue Green -- Grumbacher Thalo Green Earth Colors--Maimerblu Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Venetian Red Get a Cheap Joe's Original Palette-- For paper I suggest Waterford Cold Press 140 # Brushes: 1 1/2 in. Robert Simmons "Sky Scraper" 1/2", 3/4#, 1" Grumbacher aquarelle flats #12, #7, #2 Legend Kolinsky Sable rounds #2 liner (or rigger)-Winsor Newton Scepter | ||
Anonymous |
Use Maimeriblu brand because it is cheap and high quality: Perm Yellow Lemon Cad. Yellow Light Cad Red Light Crimson Lake Ultramarine Deep Cerulean Primanry blue cyan Cupric Green Deep Raw Sienna Burnt Sienna Robert Simmons "White sable" brushes inexpensive but supurb handling: 1 inch flat #26 Giant round #12, #8, # 6, #4 rounds #2 rigger --Waterford cold Press watercolor paper 10 sheet pack 22X33 Highest quality, less expensive --Gatorboard 15X22 (or slighly larger--for 1/2 sheet painting)for a support --4 bulldog clips-- to hold down the paper --"Blue and Yellow Don't Make Green" by Wilcox (best guide for color mixing) Happy Painting | ||
drollere |
what you need to get started: 1 tube paint (any color, but black works great) 1 brush (any size, any type, but a sable round #8 is nice) 1 sheet of watercolor paper (white and sized is nice, but not essential) 1 bowl of clear water 1 flat surface out of the wind and rain (table, floor) anything else you add to this list is a matter of style or preference. paul klee painted in watercolors for several years and all the paintings were black, black, black paint or ink and water on white or tinted paper. even if you are in a rural area, the salespeople/operators at cheap joe's, daniel smith, dick blick or pearl paint can help you sort out selections and make a good choice. many of them are artists themselves. i think there are two approaches. the first approach is to buy everything you hear about, then pick and choose from there. the second approach is to wait until you identify a very specific and personal need, then buy exactly what it takes to fill that need. i've done it both ways. i think the first approach often results from a kind of anxiety about doing it right or avoiding the pain, and it might help to ask, "who cares, really?" what you use or why. if you accept that art does involve a leetle bit of discomfort, but it's the same kind of discomfort you get on a long hike or a good workout, and if you use the good exercise rules of a little bit every day and never with strain or pain, then everything happens naturally. | ||
jandrle |
I, too like to carry my paints around so I use a Pikes pallette. They are available from Dick Blick I believe. After 20 years with the same pallette I just ordered a new one. It has a cover that snaps on tightly and you can carry it anywhere. It is hard to take large sheets of paper so the quarter sheets are a great suggestion... they are about the same size as the pallette and can be carried anywhere. I took a portfolio to Oregon with big sheets of Arches, my paper of choice (live in Virginia) and checked it with the airline. I went to Oregon and the portfolio went to Tokyo! When I finally got it it was in good shape but when it arrived back in Virginia after being separated from me again (weather this time) the front pocket was shredded. Oh well, this year I finally invested in a back pack too, not very expensive, that I can carry all my supplies in. That way they are one of two places, in the backpack or in my studio... Good luck. Watercolors are magical and to me, the perfect painting experience. Jane | ||
aquabelle |
Sandra, The options are almost endless. Even though you are just getting started, your choice of paper will make a huge difference in your rate of progress. There are many distractions and annoying problems related to the cheaper types. I recommend you try this for a starter set: ...2-4 sheets of Winsor Newton cold press, 300 lb paper--divided into 4 pieces each, painting on both sides: 8-16 paintings ...1 small tube each: Winsor Newton quinacridone gold, quinacridone rose, cobalt blue, and manganese blue hue ...1 flat, 1 round brush, each as large as feels manageable to your hand/arm, in any natural hair but sable is best. Any brand. ...1 sheet of gatorboard 12 X 16 (1/4 watercolor sheet size) plus 4 large metal clips ...1 plastic muffin tin with 6 cups for a palette (I found them at Blick or Cheap Joe's I think.) This set would work both at home and in the field if you add a 3-legged stool and an assortment of water jars--towels--rags for mopping up. ...also one of the good basic books on watercolor: my favorite is The Joy of Watercolor by David Millard (Watson-Guptill), who gets you started by also using a watercolor sketchbook, where you begin to learn your craft. I spent so much money and time on things that turned out to be useless over the past 20 years! The items I suggest may seem expensive, but they help you avoid some pointless deadends and discouragement. Happy painting! Carol | ||
sandra henderson |
I am overwhelmed by the selection. I need good, but inexpensive paper, as I am just getting started and obviously won't be producing any major works of art for a while. I am pretty much self teaching myself, with a few hints from a friend. I live on Cumberland Island, GA and would like a set of paints to take in the field, etc. but would also like some basic things for at home. |
