| Author |
Message |
 
Zoe
| | Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2004 - 2:44 pm: |  |
I like it, or at least I think I do :) |
 
Robert
| | Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2004 - 2:23 pm: |  |
Thanks Zoe--I found it ! Blockxx reg. 22.95 on sale for 10.49. Thanks for the tip |
 
Zoe
| | Posted on Saturday, September 11, 2004 - 9:21 pm: |  |
Robert, I was just surfing and thought you might be interested to know that ASW express is offering the "genuine" manganese at 1/2 price. The Swiss manufacturer, I think. |
 
Robert
| | Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 7:08 pm: |  |
Thanks Dale-- I also use cerulean, permanent magenta (same pigment as perm. rose but more blue biased and darker), and raw sienna for many shadows-- I think I got the idea from a book by Lucy Wiilis. Happy Painting-- Robert |
 
Dale Ziegler
| | Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 6:36 pm: |  |
Robert, I guess I misslead you. I once use manganese blue but have switched to Cerulean blue, which is also grainy. I must admit I got this mix in Marilyn Simandle's book. and it really works for me. She uses either manganese or cerulean and gets wonderful greys. I think I got my Manganese from Holbein when I still used it. |
 
Robert
| | Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 2:22 pm: |  |
I asked about the source of maganese blue because the only companies that offer it are Lukas, Old Holland, and Bockxx, none of which I have tried. All of the rest offer simply Manganeese *hue* made from PB 15 (Pthalo Blue). Of course pthalo blue is a staining pigment while manganese is a wildly granulating pigment. |
 
Robert
| | Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 9:37 am: |  |
Dale--What is your source for genuine manganese blue? |
 
Dale Ziegler
| | Posted on Friday, August 20, 2004 - 8:53 am: |  |
You can make a wonderful range of greys from warm to cool by mixing manganese blue, raw sienna and permanent rose. For luminous effects varying the amounts of each color within the wash. |
 
Robert
| | Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2004 - 8:10 am: |  |
Mpore on Grays: My 2 favorite standby grays: often for shadows -- a lavenderish gray made from Cerulean (Miameriblu-- not W&N which is very greenish), Dioxazine Violet(ie Winsor), Raw Sienna. For Clouds -- Cerulean + venetian red. Also, I don't use it, but Davy's Gray is a delicate green biased gray. |
 
Donna
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 4:55 pm: |  |
My favorite grey is WN cerulean blue mixed with WN cad red pale. You can get anywhere from blue to brownish greys. What I like best is that it is grainy and separates a bit now and then. This is a great mixture to use for stone and brick. |
 
Kukana
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 1:09 pm: |  |
Buy Jeanne Dobies book "Making Colors Sing" She makes Gray sing! Best book I ever bought and i have a lot/ |
 
Jody
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 12:41 pm: |  |
Wow! So many great ideas. I feel a lot more confident tackling this piece now. Thank you all so much for sharing your knowledge and experience! |
 
jandrle
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 10:38 am: |  |
I personally like to use greys made of complimentary colors. They are pure and vary so much in how they look. Jane |
 
Robert
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2004 - 10:44 pm: |  |
Thanks for the clarification --I forgot that the greys vary according to the ratios in the mix--I cited how I most use them as an absolute. Great advice in this thread from John and Sid. BTW--One more --cobalt and raw umber. |
 
Sid
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2004 - 9:24 pm: |  |
Jody: Actually, the Ultramarine/Burnt Umber mix Robert mentions will produce a variety of colors including a grayed blue, a gray with a blue cast, a nearly pure neutral gray, a gray with an brownish tinge, to a grayed brown. You can also use Burnt Sienna instead of b. umber for a slightly "warmer" gray, if Robert will allow me to use that term!!. You might also try using Indigo and adding various blues and browns to it. And also try cerulean blue+raw sienna+brown madder. Any set of complementary colors (opposites on the color wheel) will produce a neutral gray and a wide range of so-called "semi-neutrals" or "grays". You can get a range similar to the UMB+Burnt Umber mix by using Cadmium Orange instead of the umber (the umber is actually an already "grayed" orange.) |
 
John Preston
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2004 - 7:51 pm: |  |
Robert has made some good suggestions. I like the Viridian/ Rose combo a lot. I would add that it sometimes helps to keep it a mix of just 2 colors. Try all possible combos of blues and browns that are on your palette, and all green and red combos. Be sure to try various amounts in each mix as some pairs have quite a range of variations. The Viridian/ Rose combo goes from dull green to grey green to neutral grey to pinkish/purple grey to dull purple. |
 
Robert
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2004 - 5:59 pm: |  |
any mix of the three primaries can theoretically make grey. Greys are usually biased toward various colors. Permanent rose and viridian make a mauvish grey. Light red and cerulean make a cloud grey. Ultramarine and burnt umber make an orange leaning grey as a tint. if you want a pure grey with no overtones, you might not get it by mixing colors--you'd better stick to a black and tint with water or white, but even then blacks have biases--lamp--blue, ivory--orange. |
 
Jody
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2004 - 4:16 pm: |  |
I am painting an old grainery (from photo taken in North Dakota) and want to match the greys in the photo as closely as possible--they are so beautiful. What is the best way to make greys without making them muddy???? |