| Author | Message | ||
  Anya |
You might be referring to YUPO. They have a web site. | ||
klinglerjh |
I have a question for anyone out there that can help! I was refered her by a local art store. I am looking for a type of water color paper that is used to do wash out water colors. At least that is what people have called it. You paint solid water colors of the colors of your choice, blue sky/water, autumn trees, green grass then let dry and then go back and wash out to white the actual painting. I is a medium I have been dieing to try but cannot locate the paper needed. Is is refered to as synthetic watere color paper. Does anyone know/heard of what I am talking about? Any help would be appreciated by a newbie to the field, but absolutly in love with it! | ||
Robert |
You are welcome. | ||
jdaneman |
More on water: on the recommendation of this board, I got a copy of Schmalz's book on O'Hara's watercolor technique. I found a used copy of this out-of-print classic Watercolor Lessons from Eliot O'Hara if you click on the link. The book has an EXCELLENT explanation of reflections in water--the structure of wavelets (near side of a ripple, far side, how the light falls) and about reflections on still and troubled water. I've read countless books, but I have to say, the simplicity of the explanations here would have me rate this book "essential" to a basic watercolor library. Thanks to all who recommended it here. | ||
Andrew Wylie |
Wilcox's pthalo blue is the green shade, not the red shade | ||
Zoe |
Teresa - It's always difficult to disagree with Robert, but he may be right that "less is more" - however, it's fun to paint with the colours we like or are attracted to even if they don't fit a pattern. Some of my favourites that don't fit: Cad Scarlet mixed with Gamboge is heavenly gold; W&N has a permanent Alizarin and I can't be without Sap Green (although it is likely a mixable colour). You might also give up the Cobalt Yellow in favour of a less heavy yellow and go outside the W&N and get Azo Yellow from Graham - it is just terrific. Enjoy, Teresa, whichever way you go. | ||
Robert |
FWIW--W/N Cad. Red is a rather deep red. Cad. Scarlet, an orange red is far more useful as a mixer and is also not nearly as Opaque. | ||
Robert |
Theresa-- I personally think--since you posted them--that your planned oprder is too large. I would go strictly with the Wilcox selection and us Blue and Yellow...Green --his book. Why? Becasue you can mix all of the other colors anyway, a limited palette gives you knowledge and control and color harmony. Gamboge, Aurolein, Rose Madder, and Alizarin are fugitive, BTW unless you are actually getting modern subsititutes. New Gamboge, permanent Alizarin, permanent rose, (Hilary page recommends Winsor Lemon for Aurolein). Over the years I have not been adding to my palette but reducing it. What I've ended up with, by my own trial and error has been, coincidentally , the Wilcox Palette sans Yellow Ochre. This is becasue that palette allows you to mix anything and understand how it is done. This all opinion, but a palette based on selecting colors you "like" isn't as effective as a palette based upon colors that cover the mixing spectrum. Less is More. However, it is a very personal thing, a palette, and each artist arrives at a palette his (or her) own way. I'm just giving my take, not at all trying to be critical or dogmatic. So have fun! | ||
Teresa |
Robert, I love the painting of the swimmer. That water looks so cool and WET, just like what I want to be able to paint...and the breaking surf work is just as wet looking. Very good stuff. Do you have any painitngs of water that I could see? I havent been to any workshops...I do have an art teacher, but, not for watercolors just for drawing. I believe that I should be able to draw really well as artist in any medium. So the watercolors I have ben learning from books and the internet. How do you "benefit from art books without copying the style "? From personal preference for colors and the Wilcox palette here are the colors I am planning to order...(Zoe, Gamboge is one of my favs!Maybe it is just the Fall season but I am love the warm yellow,orangy,reddish colors) Cadmium Red Alizarin Crimson French Ultramarine Cerulean Blue Winsor Lemon Yellow Rose Madder Genuine Quinacridone Red Light Red Oxide Cobalt Blue Winsor Blue ( green shade) Winsor Blue ( red shade) Cobalt Yellow or Aureolin Yellow Ochre Viridian Burnt Sienna Raw Sienna Burnt Umber Raw Umber Permanent Sap Green Scarlet Lake Permanent Magenta Indian Yellow Gamboge | ||
Robert |
Speaking of Christian Wharton, here's a gallery of her w/c paintings. What do you think? http://www.christianwharton.com/gallery.html | ||
Zoe |
After trying out many more paint mfgrs (not AJ, yet) I'll second Robert's recommendation for W&N and add that I equally like Graham's. I have not been as satisfied with the Daniel Smith's even though their lovely colourful palette captivated me. I've noticed that a gel-like film seems to form on normal air exposure and within a short time. I noticed this in Philadelphia and then back home - two different weather patterns and not too warm. I also think MaimeriBlu should rise to a higher level of acceptance. I find their paint matches the standards of the others. I had used the Maimeri acrylics but only have a few watercolours. And as for palettes I think Wilcox palette is fine, but I'd probably add Gamboge and Antwerp blue (two of my personal favourites) and Graham's Azo (yellow) - a real treat in yellows. | ||
Teresa |
Robert, I do have a copy of Wilcox's "Blue and yellow dont make green"... Of all the color theory books I have read his book seem to make the most sense, to be honest.But there are so many theories out there it is difficult for a beginner to sort through them all. I just want to know enough about paints to be able to mix my own colors. I do love the delicious looking Daniel Smith catalog. I have a few tubes of WN and I do like them, even the Cotmans in my field box are really nice. So I will place an order for WN paints with the Wilcox palette and go back and re read Wilcox's book. Thank you again for your advise.I'll be practicing all Winter and hopefully in the Spring I'll be able to get out and do some plein aire painting of all the beautiful things there are to paint here in this area. I have been out sketching this Fall and love working outdoors. | ||
Robert |
BTW-- The Wilcox Palette is essentially a split primary: Winsor Lemon Yellow Cadmium Yellow Cadmium Red Light or Scarlet Permanent Magenta (ie, Quinacridone Violet) French Ultramarine Cerulean Blue Winsor (Pthalo) blue red shade Winsor (pthalo) green Raw sienna Burnt sienna Yellow ochre If I could recommend one brand for these colors it would be W/N | ||
Robert |
Oh==and M. Graham | ||
Robert |
Furst, I don;t recommend Wharton's book to learn how to paint water. It is far too quirkey. She says some interesting things about the relationship between art and quantum mechanics, that's all. By far the best recommendation I can make is to get "Blue and Yellow Don't Make Green" by Wilcox, a fantastic book on how to create and use a limited palette logically. It has changed my life. Daniel Smith, IMHO, has a marketing strategy that appeals to people who like to buy exotic color names and who want a palette of dozens of paints--most of them are simple mixes. Personally I would follow the palette advice of blue and yellow don't make green by Wilcox and use his palette. The best quality brands in my experience are winsor newton, rembrandt, daniel smith, and maimeriblu. Best of luck. | ||
Teresa |
Robert. Oh, The Painting Water in Watercolor I have is the book by Ann Wailey! And I agree, it is awful. I will look for the book by Christian Wharton.... And I have another question since you have been so kind as to answer me about the painting of water....I have the usual generic boxed set of "beginning watercolor" paints and now am ready to place an order for paints that I choose but I am so confused! Every book, watercolor painter and website seem to recommend a different palette! How does a beginner decide what colors to buy? I have read the Wilcox book, the Jeanne Dobie " Making colors sing" and "Color theory made easy" by Jim Ames and it seems if you follow these folk's advise on palette then you also need to follow their style of thinking and style of painting. I want a group of colors without going along with any particular style of painting. I realise that eventually I will develop my own style and palette but as a beginner I just used the colors that came in the generic set. I have used a little of Winsor Newton artist colors and like them and some of Daniel Smith colors and like those as well.( The Daniel Smith colors look so exciting in their catalog, I want to order them all!!!)Can you offer any advise? Thanks, Teresa | ||
Robert |
I have found Painting Water in Watercolour by Christian Wharton (there is another of the same title by Ann Wailey that is terrible) to be a very engaging read. I love what she says about painting--her philosophy. Her painting style, though, is so different from the mainstream that most people will find it goes anainst everything they normally do, so much so that it is virtually useless if one wants to follow her advice to the letter. She dabs all of her paint on. She mixes her pigments from powders. She only uses five colors total--cad yellow, cad red, ultramarine, pthalo blue, pthalo green. This is a difficult palette to create natural water paintings . All that said, I have been able to benefit from art books without copying the style. Once I realized this I was able to learn more. In fact, I get much more out of a good art instruction book that a workshop, usually. (beacuse I can take my time and really study what is being taught). So I don't recommend Painting water in watercolour as instruction but I did like the prose Wharton wrote about painting (as philosophy). | ||
Teresa |
jdaneman and Robert, Thanks so much! I will check out those books. And of course, practice, practice. I have a copy of Painting water in Watercolor and didnt really like it. The water just doesnt look wet to my eye. I moved here to South Eastern Pennsylvania from East Tennesseee mountain area. Both have some beautiful areas to paint. Thanks again, Teresa | ||
jdaneman |
While not specifically on water, Alwyn Crawshaw has a wonderful book that pertains to the type of countryside in PA. You Can Paint Watercolors This is the pure English style, rather like Cotman. I've been painting a long time, but Crawshaw taught me some simple strokes that had me painting cattle successfully. I grew up in SE PA (in fact, I live in lower DE right now) and the area I lived in PA was filled with gorgeous streams and ponds and fields. Another good book, more specifically on landscape with water is by the wonderful Jack Reid. Don't be fooled by the title. Watercolor Basics has examples of mountains, snows, lakes, streams and is absolutely inspiring. Topics include rocks in water, sunlight on water, mist, puddles, rain, surf and waterfalls. Finally, specifically on water, Painting Water in Watercolor deals with the drybrush technique of high detail--for reflections and things in water or moving water. If you like detail and drybrush as opposed to washy impressionistic or expressionistic style, this one may suit you.If you don't like drybrush, the more fluid looks in Painting Water by Joe Dowden may be better. | ||
Robert |
I recommend this one: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/190397500X/qid=1098509366/sr=8-1/ref=pd_csp_1/104-5462674-9882344?v=glance&s=books&n=507846 | ||
Teresa |
Hi all, Can anyone recommend a book or web site with instruction, tips, guidelines on how to paint water? I live in South Eastern Pennsylvania in a rural area with lots of wonderful streams,creeks and ponds..I am trying to paint them without much sucess.I have been painting both running water as well as still water and it all turns out overworked mud. Can anyone offer advise? I have been painting in watercolours about 4-5 months. |
