| Author |
Message |
 
midnight_baseball
| | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 3:12 pm: |  |
robert - 5 gallons of gasoline in a sprayer, oil paint and a broom?!
i'd love to see that painting - very inspiring antedote! |
Robert
| | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 11:49 am: | |
broom -- not Brook--sorry |
Robert
| | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 11:48 am: | |
Or a broom. Seriously, a couple of years ago I stretched a huge canvas--8 feet by 5 feet--took it into my backyard and did an entire oil painting with a brook and a pump sprayer (5 galons f gasoline in the sprayer). I brihed opn the paint and then hosed it. I have it hanging in the entryway of my house and poeple seem to love it.
Seriously though--for full sheets I use a large squirrel mop for washes. It works well. |
Eric
| | Posted on Monday, January 23, 2006 - 9:15 am: | |
For a large sheet when there's lots of area to cover, a 2" flat brush is a must-have. |
Dan
| | Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2006 - 5:39 pm: | |
Just absolutely love 1/4 sheets. So practical and "controlable". I always get lost in the large sheets. Too much ground to cover for me. |
midnight_baseball
| | Posted on Saturday, January 21, 2006 - 12:44 am: | |
yes - the dry painting is immersed in cool water in the bathtub. i usually "tickle" the areas i want to lighten/erase (while the painting is under water)with a wide flimsy synthetic round or flat (usually) brush.
sometimes i hit an area underwater like i'm painting a house. sometimes i'll flap the brush in the water like a flipper and let the water movement lightly do the work.
the areas that are untouched with a brush (and/or waterforce) are largely undisturbed.
different pigments and different paint/pigment application techniques will vary the degree of success you'll have, but usually it results in a better condition than right before your decision to give it a dunk.
after i'm done, i usually lift the sheet out of the water, tilt it so the water drains off the lowest corner (or the corner i choose to let the water drain from) and then i either hang it over the tub to dry or lay it flat and let it dry or go at it with a blowdryer.
hanging over the tub: i use some clear packing tape over a towel bar that i use to suspend two bulldog clips from - then i clip the sheet and let it air dry (draining into the tub/shower) while hanging from the towel bar.
i usually wipeup/shower up the residual pigment from the tub/tile (especially stainers) within a short period of time - but most every time they'll come off even after dry.
it's a technique that takes a little bit of courage and a little bit of practice.
hope this helps.
chris! |
Kristen
| | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 9:24 pm: | |
The tub technique --- does this mean you soak an in-progress painting, sponge off areas, and stretch again? |
midnight_baseball
| | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 6:24 pm: | |
i started out on 1/8 sheets when i first began painting in october 2004. i moved on to quarter sheets when i started painting portraits and then 1/2 sheets when i started painting figures. i made a lot of progress on 1/2 sheets.
when i started full sheets, that's when i discovered the tub for correcting mistakes. the tub technique works pretty good at saving a promising painting that took a wrong turn.
also i can work on a technique over and over until i get it right. it does not mess with the rest of your painting.
full sheets has are the hardest, so i save them for something i might want to enter in a show. my skill in large washes has improved greatly on full sheets and that has given me a lot of confidence in my painting.
i bought three empty frames set up for 1/2 sheets and three set up for full sheets. so i guess i like those sizes the best. |
Kristen
| | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 6:20 pm: | |
My best paintings have thus far been 7x10 (approximate) sizes. I think, for me, it's easier to execute washes in the smaller size, but more importantly, the painting reaches completion more quickly, so I'm less likely to overwork it.
Regarding size and competition, I won an honorable mention this fall in a regional show, and was stunned when I saw the impact of the other paintings, many of which were half or full sheets. My painting was a 7x10, framed in an 11x14 frame. |
Eugene
| | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 3:14 pm: | |
When I painted for comprtitions I painted full sheets. There's no
doubt that size gets attention.
However, now I paint mostly 1/4 sheets. When matted they fit
standard size 16x20 frames. I know that shouldn't be a reason,
but if you're painting to sell, it makes sense.
For me, small sizes are easier to paint. Not the big chances of
uneven washes and backruns. everything is just easier to
control in the smaller sizes.
But because it's easy doesn't mean it's correct.
Some subjects are better in larger sizes. |
Eric
| | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 8:59 am: | |
My best work seems to occur when I paint half sheets-15" x 22". But I'm getting better at full sheets and am painting these more often than the other sizes. I have to make sure the drawing and the composition is absolutely correct on a big, full sheet because it's hard to see the whole sheet at once standing at a close distance. You have to step back to view it to make sure it's correct. Robert, I think that's what you're talking about when you say smaller paintings are easier to "sense the composition". |
Robert
| | Posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 7:22 am: | |
What is your preferred painting size (not what size do you paint so it looks good on the wall or so it will sell or so it will win contests)? For me it is a soul searching question. I tend to paint 1/2 sheets but when I really, really think about it, I like small paintings because it's so easy to execute the washes and to sense the composition. Thus I really secretly love painting on 7 X 10 (favorite) and 9 X 12 blocks (Lana rough preferred). I wish there were a serious demand for such sizes. |
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