| Author | Message | ||
  Dake |
I've tried the irridescent medium by W&N. I find it a little "gimmicky" for my tastes but it depends on the subject and feel you are going for. Certainly with figurative, whimsical pieces it can add something, but as usual with special effects they always work best when used very sparingly. Also be careful not to use it with expensive sable brushes as it does have an abrasive quality and is really hard to get out of of the hairs. It also shows up when you least expect it...you think it's all cleaned up but still find minute glitter happening on your work sometimes 4 or 5 paintings later. Treat it as you would a bacterium that you wouldn't wish to spread or infect your friends with. | ||
Linda |
I've tried the iridescent medium, yes, and it is actually powdered aluminum, says an educated friend of mine. It is WONDERFUL painted on one grain at a time (with a nib) in a very restrained manner...a subtle effect for the glistening of water around the edge of a splashing wave, the center point of a star in the nighttime sky, etc. | ||
Neffi |
Has anyone tried the Winsor & Newton watercolor iridescent and granulation mediums? Wondering how effective they are. | ||
Kukana |
My favorite masking is PEBEO. It's really great stuff. Comes off clean But be careful with any of them on Aquarius Paper. | ||
anneengw |
I got frustrated with the globby mess and broken lids while opening the WN masking solution. So now I keep a smaller portion in a plastic container--like a film container or smaller, and put a piece of tripled over plastic wrap under the lid. This way, only a small amount is exposed to air and I can always get the lid off. Great for traveling--I like to go light. | ||
Unyru |
Geeky, Feather, & Others: Re: Keeping masking fluid in its fluid state. White Mask is the one I use, so this may not work with all of that type of masking stuff. Keep the lid on it, put it back on as quickly as you can while it is in use.Before you close up shop with it, pour in a few drops of amonia. The key is "few" drops. Don't overdo, but be consistent as you use it to keep it fluid and not a tangled, rubbery, bloby mess. This does work for me and White Mask. | ||
dazey |
I read that one artist -- I think i may be Tom Lynch--found that he could heat the permanent masking fluid with a hair dryer and the shine would go away. It was in a magazine. I have not tried it. | ||
Geeky2 |
Oops, sorry I should have read the title,,,I was talking about regular masking fluid. sorry. Jean | ||
Geeky2 |
I know a lot of people use liquid mask, but I will only use it as a last resort. I don't like the way it looks either. I do know that a lot of experienced artists do use it, so maybe it is something you have to get used to. I'm afraid I can't really help you with it. I've thrown away bottles that turned into rubber balls, and read everthing I can find, and used it some, but I don't really like it. Good luck, Jean | ||
feather |
permanent masking fluid comments: I tried W/N permanent masking fluid and have a number of personal observations: 1. I found out that it must dry a very long time before it works properly. If you try to paint over it too soon it doesn't work at all. I'm not sure exactly how many hours, but I do know that overnight works. 2. It's hard to determine how much permanent mask I was applying as I put it on because it goes on as a clear shine...if I used too little it didn't work at keeping the white of the paper completely white, and when I used too much of it turned a dirty nasty tinge. Perhaps I just need to find the right ballance somehow. 3. The advantage I saw with the W/N perm mask was the ability to control it. I could put it on in the teeny tiny areas that traditional thick masks would be very difficult if not nearly impossible to do. I also found that it was easy to apply, it went on quickly and easily without the fear of drying from brush to paper, and without any goo or mess. 4. The biggest disadvantage of of this mask is that even when it is applied in just the right amount the shine never ever goes away! At certain angles the masked areas appear very un-natural and obvious to anyone that "something" was applied...it doesn't give the look of fresh naked paper that I has hoped for anyway. Perhaps it has a place in my art box, but I will only use it as a last resort sort of thing. I'm interested in hearing the experiences of others, perhaps there is a trick with using it that I don't know about. respectfully: feather | ||
Rich Williams1 |
I find that if I wet the brush, rub it on a bar of soap untill the brush is loaded whith soap. I then dip it into the masking fluid and use it. I can use it for a while this way and then dip it into water and clean the brush. I then rub it on soap again and repeat the process. I have been doing this for the last two years and have not ruined an expensive brush yet. | ||
crystal |
Just spilled CJ's masking fluid on robe & jammies...can I get it off somehow? thanks | ||
lambsbook |
Anybody try this product yet? What do you like and dislike about it? Thanks. | ||
ed macomber |
This product has a great use when removal is not important and you are looking for something to be less "threatening to a watercolor brush.And THIS masing fluid can be used as a "mix" with the color you wish to "save" so that the two - three step process is cut to one. It dries slow, so you have to be patient, but it is far better for extra fine detail as well, such as small lace or extra fine highlights. Ed @ ArtMaterials..New Bern, N.C. | ||
Anonymous |
I found a product call SHIVA and put out by a company with the same name. It is a masking brush cleaner. I usually buy the cheapest brushes in a art store, but to get nicely pointed brushes, they still can be costly as throw-aways. I used the brush cleaner on a brush that I was about to throw away. The cleaner comes with a little cup inside the bottle. I filled the cup, propped my brush in the fluid and after about 2 days the brush was clean except for a clump of mask inside the hairs. I used a tweezers and pulled it out. Now I use the cleaner immediately after appling the mask. It is great. But I still will not risk using my actual painting brushes for mask. Better safe than sorry. They have a masking fluid for which the cleaner is to used. The premise is that you dip your brush in the cleaner then in the mask (also a little cup provided) then after applying to the paper the mask can be washed off in water. The only problem I found was that although quaranteed not to, the pink mask left a pink stain on the paper after removal. I am returning it. | ||
gypsyjean |
Whenever I use masking fluid I dip my brush in dish soap first then in the masking fluid. Dove doesn't stain the paper. You still have to be careful not to let it dry in the brush and it will dull the bristles, so I keep one brush just for the masking. You can also use the eye of a needle to dip in the masking fluid to draw fine lines. | ||
geeky2 |
Re: any masking fluid: I have used several masking fluids, a blue one, W&N, and have Joe's but have not tried it yet. The problem I've had with the first two, when I stirred it before using, it turned into a solid rubber ball in the jar. I tried to thin it with water, no luck. I'm sure I'm doing the wrong thing, and it might have been too old. Any comments? Is there one I can thin with water? | ||
munch |
I also had a question about thinning masking fluid. If water doesn't work, I wonder if it requires something for oils such as turpenoid. I don't want to ruin my whole jar by trying it unless I know it is going to work. (as my mask isn't a mass yet, but just thicker than I like). Has anyone else ever tried it? | ||
Anonymous |
I have found that I can thin almost any masking fluid (I use mostly either cheap joes brand or Incredible White mask...) by simply pouring a small amount into another container and adding water, and thinning only the amount I use in that one sitting. Never pour it back. It alters the chemical make up of it - and it will turn into a ball! Only thin the amount you will use! It works for me. P.S. Masking fluid does seem to have a limited shelf life... | ||
sroper |
I have increased the shelf life of masking fluid by pouring only a small amount into a disposable bottle lid (drinking water, etc) and immediately closing the masking fluid bottle lid. I never dip the brush into the masking fluid bottle or shake it...bad things happen! When I am done masking, I throw away any remaining masking fluid and the bottle lid, never pour it back. To use a sponge for applying masking fluid, I use a disposable paper or plastic snack plate and dispose of any unused fluid after use. As for "priming" the brush with soap first, Dial handsoap does stain the paper, try for a white or clear liquid soap, but soap does save the brush. Cheap Joe's Uggly Brush is great for holding a point and holding up to the masking fluid. | ||
mittyalf |
I have successfully thinned masking fluid with amonia. | ||
Luv2PAINT4U |
I have used CJ's masking fluid and have mixed feelings. I like the one that is colored so you know where you put it and where u haven't yet. But the shelf life seems not long enough for me. I also use water with soap in it and let it bubble up and I dip my brush in this frequently and it works great on the brush. I think I'll take your suggestion of pouring out the amount I need and not dipping into the container as this may help extend the life of the product Thanks | ||
jmtowle |
mittyalf: amonia? to thin masking fluid. I tried thinning it with water after taking some out of the jar (which is getting thick). Worked great. How does amonia mixture react on paper? Easy to rub off when finished? | ||
Anonymous |
I recently read that to increase the life of masking fluid, store the jar in the fridge upside down. | ||
Anonymous |
I've used several types of masking fluid. The one that works best for me is "Grumbacher's" Misket #559. I keep the jar turned upside down at all times (except when I open it, of course). It never thickens in the jar and has a slight pink color so it can be seen quite well. Also, it comes off clean and never leaves a stain. However, I just placed an order for Joe's since I could not find Grumbacher's listed. I wet my (old) brush and then rub it against a dry bar of soap. No problems getting the fluid out when finished. Hope this helps someone. | ||
gabriel |
who was that masked fluid? hi-yo frisket! awayyyyyyyyy! -sheriff gabriel. | ||
apiper |
For our own safety I think a Materials Safety Data Sheet which lists what goes into a product should be consulted before adding anything to a liquid. The MSDS tells what specifically not to add, and what to do if it blows up... The manufacturer must supply one if it is requested as per the law. I would hesitate to put amonia in anything unless I knew what I was adding it to. | ||
ratplay |
Does anyone make a masking fluid that doesn't have ammonia in it? I'm exceedingly allergic to the fumes so I can't use any that I know of right now. | ||
BYRON |
"RATPLAY" I AM UNAWARE OF ANY MASKING FLUIDS THAT DO NOT HAVE AMMONIA ADDED TO THEM AND SO I CHECKED WITH MY PRODUCTION MANAGER, JOSEPH MILLER, AND HE SAID THAT AT THIS TIME HE WASN'T AWARE OF ANY EITHER. BASICALLY THE AMMONIA ACTS AS A PRESERVATIVE IN THE FLUID. I WISH I COULD BE OF FURTHER ASSISTANCE, HOPEFULLY WITH THIS POSTING SOMEONE OUT THERE MAY HAVE SOME OTHER POSSIBLE SOLUTION TO YOUR PROBLEM, AND OR KNOW OF A PARTICULAR MASKING FLUID WHICH MAY HAVE SOMETHING OTHER THAN AMMONIA. GOOD LUCK BYRON - CJAS | ||
ratplay |
Thanks for checking this out for me Byron. | ||
Gail/Mn |
I have used CJ's and like it. I do the soap and water the brush before I use it and then wash right away when done. I will try turning the cont. upside down while not in use. Thanks | ||
Anonymous |
I love Pebeo. Can't live without it for masking! Just don't ever leave any masking fluid on too long. It can become permenant! |
