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Masking fluid damage on W&N paper

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pharris
Posted on Saturday, April 8, 2000 - 1:31 pm:   Print Post

This is the first time I've used W&N 300# cold press paper. When I tried to remove some W&N masking fluid, after leaving it on for only two hours, it pulled up the top layer of paper. I've used many other brands of paper before and never had this happen, even after leaving the mask on for several days. Has anyone else encountered this problem with W&N papers? Thanks for your help.
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skayh
Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2000 - 11:14 am:   Print Post

Yes, I have had the same problem. I was told by a professional that if there is any water in the paper that this would happen. But I have streched paper, worked on my painting and let it set for 2 or more days before applying the mask and still experienced paper lifting. I also found a serious problem when using W&N's Cotman papers. Since I switched to Cheap Joe's (I have not been paid for this plug) Kilimanjaro paper, I have not experienced any problems.
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Marcie Borden
Posted on Sunday, May 7, 2000 - 12:08 pm:   Print Post

To pharris,
The 300# paper takes a VERY long time to dry, if you have painted very wet. Also, the humidity/weather has an impact to the drying time. I found the humidity was very surprising and I had not really thought about it before.
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waterdroplet
Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2000 - 2:44 am:   Print Post

I haven't tried WN 300# paper and was very disappointed that the 260# doesn't seem to be available. That has been my favorite and I really haven't had a problem with the various masking fluid (including Cheap Joe's) with lifting the paper. I do have a problem with the stuff drying out into a big gum ball in the jar. I live in the mountains without any humidity and if anyone has a solution for that I'd appreciate hearing about it.
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chris2
Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2000 - 11:44 pm:   Print Post

waterdroplet,
i had my masking fluid dry up into a mushy lump.
what i did is add water to it and stir it back to its fluid state(if not too dried out). once its fluid again i took reynolds saran wrap(i think thats the kind, either way buy the best, it does matter. the cheap stuff is actually porous) and lay it over the mouth of the jar after use and screw the lid on tight over the saran wrap. its like a lid under a lid. my jars lid had split for whatever reason let air in. i did this to it and it has been a year later and it has not dried up yet, still liquid. i hope it works for you.

chris2
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Anonymous
Posted on Thursday, May 18, 2000 - 1:55 pm:   Print Post

I found that if my masking fluid got very cold-or frozen- from leaving in the car after a late night class, that it had a big lump in the bottom. All congealed with only a little liquid on top.
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J. Webb
Posted on Thursday, June 1, 2000 - 3:39 pm:   Print Post

I've had the same problem with W/N paper and masking fluid. I now use 300# Arches CP and only buy the small bottles of fresh masking fluid and solved my problems. I staple my paper to a homosote panel and use a hair dryer very carefully. Beware, once you scratch, scrape or abrade the paper surface in any way, further use of masking fluid in these ares is very risky.
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SandeeM
Posted on Monday, July 10, 2000 - 12:49 pm:   Print Post

I have only used Daler-Rowney masking fluid so far, and have not had the problem you mentioned. You have to have the paper completely DRY applying mask and the paper must be completely dry before removing.
This mask can be diluted with water. My last bottle got all gummed up after the bottle was almost gone. I added some water and shook it up really good. Then it wouldn't come up at all off of W&N CP 140lb paper!
I pour only a small amount out of the bottle at a time into a small bottle cap or small cup. (The best are some small plactic cups from Crystal Light drink mixes... after the mask dries you can peel it out and reuse it for the same purpose) Then I use a trick I saw in a magazine: using masking tape I cover the tip of a sharp pencil and use it as an applicator. If it gets too gummed up you can replace the masking tape and keep going. By only pouring a small amount of mask at a time I keep the bottle fresher.
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waterdog
Posted on Tuesday, September 5, 2000 - 8:57 pm:   Print Post

What about masking film that you cut into whatever shape you want to mask out, then peel and stick it on your paper? I was told it works without paper damage, but does it stick closely enough to keep out the unwanted paint??
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gabriel
Posted on Monday, September 11, 2000 - 12:01 pm:   Print Post

waterdog-

yes, if the paper is dry. frisket film is a great tool to utilize when you want to block out large areas. you can also lay it down first, and then lightly cut with an x-acto knife, instead of cutting first before laying it out.
we sell frisket film here at cheap joe's for $5.95 (that's 6 sheets of 9"x12"). the item number is: KET912. because of our current shipping and handling rates, it would do you right to order a few packages. call 1-800-227-2788 for more details.
-gabriel.
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fink
Posted on Monday, September 11, 2000 - 6:36 pm:   Print Post

Last night I decided that I was going to fix a painting and wanted to wash out certain areas. The paper was dry. I surrounded the area that needed washed out with frisket, let it dry and took my trusty (old)toothbrush and cleared the area out for revisions. It worked great but I had to let the paper dry good before removing the film around the area.

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