| Author | Message | ||
  Geeky2 |
Hi, If you scroll down to some of the older messages on this forum you will find more on the discussion about spraying your watercolors so that you can frame them without glass or plexiglass. | ||
Anonymous |
Eliminating static... Seems like running a anti-static sheet (for your clothers dryer) over the top of a plexiglass covered painting should do the trick. It should leave an invisible residue which will bleed off the static charge. Anyone tried this? | ||
Joan E |
Hi. I am just wondering if anyone knows of a fixative or something that you can spray a watercolor painting with so you don't have to frame under glass. It seems like the 300# paper could be handled this way if there was a way to protect it somehow. The glass adds so much weight and seems to separate the viewer from the painting; adds a barrier or something. I don't know. Just a random thought process going on here. Thanks for any thoughts on the subject! | ||
drollere |
one of the main reasons to frame a watercolor is because it looks great--the viewer actually has a stronger bond with the picture. the other is to protect it from environmental hazards; good framing seals the painting front and back. major nasties are dust which grimes up the surface, insects which eat those syrupy dried watercolors, moisture which causes mildew and rot, and acid air pollution, which gets into and destroys the paper. fixative won't help you with any of those. you're right, glass is the wrong choice: use plastic, which is lighter and safer. (don't use plastic with pastels or charcoals: if you rub it to clean it you will generate static electricity that can pull the chalk particles off the paper.) | ||
Brie D. |
Joan - The watercolorist David Daniels has developed a technique for painting in watercolor on canvas. He seals the finished work with one of the Golden acrylic varnishes - I believe MSA varnish, but I don't remember for sure - and frames it unglazed (i.e., without glass or plastic). This sounds fairly close to what you're looking for, though I don't know how the technique would work on paper. His website is www.mrwatercolor.com and I'd recommend checking there. His work has been featured in a couple of watercolor books and in American Artist's Watercolor Magazine. By the way, he frequently holds workshops for regional art groups and I recommend his teaching highly, even if your style is not like his. I studied with him in his Washington, DC studio for quite some time, and found him to be an excellent teacher. I'd still be studying there now, but commuting to the studio sessions became more difficult due to a move and job change. | ||
JoanE |
Thanks so much to drollere and Brie D. for all the great information. I appreciate both of your comments. I definitely need to do some more research and you have both pointed me in viable directions. I guess I just need to determine further what my goal actually is! Thanks again! Have a great day. | ||
Brie D. |
Joan - You're very welcome! If you end up trying the MSA varnish, you might also find it interesting to check into using Claybord and/or gessoed double-thick illustration board as a support. I've done watercolors on both surfaces. It's a whole different experience. I did not try the MSA varnish on those supports, but I don't see why it would work any less well than on canvas. - Brie | ||
dirtybird |
I just started painting on 300lb paper which I don't stretch and I painted all the way to the edges on all my first five sheets. Other than the long drying time between layers this heavier paper makes life easier for me as a beginner. I have heard of a framing technique called "floating" or something of the sort, where the edges are free and visible after framing. Anybody know how this is done? | ||
dirtybird |
I just got another watercolor shock!!The cost of framing. I got an estimate to do a simple mat and framing on several ~22" x 33" paintings I think are worth framing. Now I am not so sure. How much should I expect to pay for a single mat and framing? | ||
Carrie Stuart Parks |
Mats may be purchased uncut for about $3 for a 30 x 40 matboard if you buy wholesale. My framing on that size would run about $45 but I do all my own framing. You have probably been quoted about $250. It would be hard to explain a floated art piece the way I do it without a sketch. email me and I will do a step-by-step sketch and send it as an attachment. | ||
Marlene Gremillion |
Dear Carrie Stuart Parks, Where do you get mat board for about $3. Is is paper mat or rag mat? I do my own framing also but have not been able to find mat that cheap. Marlene | ||
Geeky2 |
What do you consider the minimum equipment to do your own framing and matting? I had always framed my oil paintings, but as someone stated, framing watercolors is expensive. Do any of you cut your own mats or just buy them pre-cut? Do you get the frames that need to be assembled? Also, where do you get the plastic to use instead of glass? Sorry for all of the questions at once! Thanks for any help. | ||
J.A. |
geeky, I do all of my own matting and I purchase my frames unassembled from a wholesale company Frame Fit out of Philadelphia (www.framefit.com) or(1-800-523 3693). I'm not from PA, and I receive my frames within 2 days. Their prices are very reasonable and the service is great. The mitered edges meet perfectly and frames come in wood, aluminum, or polystyrene (plastic). They will assemble custom-made frames for a small fee, also.The plexiglass I use is .100 thick and I purchase that( cut to my sizes) from my local glass dealer. I purchase my Crescent mat board from a local Utrecht store. It's a lot of time consuming work, but I feel more secure with making my own choices and take pride in completing the work from beginning to end. The other option of using premade materials is also valid. A lot of my artist colleagues/friends choose to use that method. It all really depends on what works best for you. Hope this has been of some help. Keep me posted. Have a great day! | ||
fink |
geeky, I also do 99% of my own framing of my watercolors mainly because I have access to an excellent matt cutter. My paintings are all odd sizes so the precut matts don't work. It also saves my precious $. There are alot of frame companies that do good work. The one that I use is Frames by Mail out of St. Louis. I have never been displeased with their product. The glass I order from our local glass dealer. When I am done, I can say that it is truly my work. | ||
geeky2 |
Thanks, J. A. and Fink, for your good information. I've considered a mat cutter, but am still in the trial phases with watercolor. I also often paint on unusual sizes, and the ones I had framed were expensive. I will let you know if I find any other good sources. | ||
desertartist |
This has been a big concern for me, too--one strike against watercolor. It's not just the cost, but having to glaze with either glass, which is so heavy, or acrylic, which acts like a big dust magnet and scratches. My only solution so far is to keep my watercolors relatively small, so that the weight of the glass is less and the frames are less expensive. I also understand that most shows and galleries won't accept metal frames. What is a good, inexpensive but acceptable alternative? | ||
Larry |
(Larry) I have started framing my own. The advise I was given by a old timer who displayed his paintings in a lot of shows was: - Paint only one or two sizes that way you can order your mats and frames in bulk. - Always mat your paintings with a neutral color mat. It avoids color clashes with potential buyer's decors. I like cream colored double mats. - Don't bother cutting your own mats. By the time you buy a good mat cutter and spoil lots of mat board, you cold but pre-cut mats as cheap and not waste your painting time. - Forget about constructing your own frames. I buy my frames at a local art discount store (you can try WalMart or Kmart etc.)and get really nice ones for about $15 to $30 each. Remember, framed pictures don't get a lot of abuse so they don't have to be super heavy. I ordered a lot of pre-cut mats from Cheap Joes as well as foam board for backing. I also bought a large roll of brown paper for a dust cover for the back. Framing can be a quick and easy process producing an excellent result. | ||
LPMullins |
I like Larry's method for framing watercolors. Do you put brown paper over the foam board on the back? What do you seal it with. Tape? What kind of tape? How do you hang it? I need step-by-step detailed instructions from beginning to end. I'm new at this & have never done it before. | ||
LPMullins |
Aren't pastels sprayed with fixatif to keep the particles from falling or rubbing off? | ||
Larry |
(Larry) My process is as follows: 1. I take the glass out of the frame and clean it very well and replace. 2. I use Cheap Joes framing tape to secure the painting to the pre-cut mat. I tape the picture on all 4 sides to insure the tape will hold forever. 3. I then place the mat/picture in the frame. 4. I then cut a piece of foam board to the correct size and place it in the frame. 5. I secure the foam board with a heavy duty stapler by stapling a small bit away from the frame so the staple goes in about 1/2 way. 6. I then press he staple down to secure the foam board and picture in. 7. I then cut a piece of brown paper (or sometimes black ...whichever I can get thats cheap) just 1/16" smaller than the dimensions of the back of the frame. 8. I then run a glue stick around the back of the frame and paste down the paper. That is the dust seal. 9. I then measure down from the top of the frame 1/3rd of the way and drill small pilot holes for the hanger wire eye screw. 10. I then screw in the eye screws and put hanger wire on. Thats it. | ||
Kukana |
I glue my brown butcher paper down with elmers glue. dry over night. Then I spray the paper with a spray bottle filled with water. I soak it down quite wet and run my hand over it to to spread the water around. Let it dry, about 4 hours. The paper is as tight as a drum. It looks very profesional. As Larry said, I like cheap joes framing tape but since Im a watercolorist, I tape only the entire top edge and let the rest of the painting float free. | ||
LPMullins |
Many many thanks, Larry & Kukana!!! | ||
Lou Fountain |
Larry, Just a short note about taping your watercolor paper on all four sides. Please never do this, eventually the paper will buckle. The paper needs to breath. I am a professional framer and watercolor artists and I know what can happen. We get lots of framed paintings in with customers asking what they can do about the paper. Also most often the paper will pull away from the the surface it was taped because it needs to breath. Just a tip to everyone, hope this helps. Lou | ||
lbailey |
Thanks Lou. I will take your instruction and perhaps tape only across the top as I have read in books. Its great ideas like your that make this board so valuable. Larry | ||
w c bill |
In regards to mat board, I've always been advised to use rag mats. Less quality mats will eventually damage the paper, as will anything else that touches the paper (including the backing) that is not 100% acid free. Between my painting and my backing I use cotton rag paper. w c bill | ||
Anonymous |
Re framing a watercolor....does anyone have any ideas on how to get rid of the static electricity on plexiglass...I have always used glass, but decided to try plexiglass and almost went nuts trying to get it free of specks!!Any suggestions? Thanks |
